14 July 2011

Charmed by Authenticity

The Ferry Arriving at Vieques.

The final arrangements are being made for my transfer and this chapter of my life in Puerto Rico will end soon. I will be taking my talents to South Beach at Air Station Miami. From what I have heard, it should be a good time there. Before I leave Puerto Rico, there were some things I had to do, see and experience. The Bioluminescence was something I decided I could not pass on. I chose to go to a small island off the south east coast of PR known as Vieques, to the brightest bio bay in the world. The trip was more than I expected and nothing short of spectacular.

Leaving Fajardo.
 

Vieques is about four hours of travel including both driving and a ferry. The GPS was able to get me to the general area, but I was on my own once I got there. Fortunately, the signs were fairly clear once a highway patrolman directed me in the right direction and pulled me over to help. I suppose he could see that I was lost, or maybe because I was speeding. Either way, I found the place with plenty of time to purchase a ferry ticket and get some grub. I boarded the 1300 ferry and took a seat at the back and outside. Puerto Rico is quite beautiful from the ocean. As always, the weather was warm and this gave me the opportunity to take some photos of the trip. With the exception of a few small landmasses along the way, the ocean was the only thing in my sights. The ferry pulled into the port at around 1415 and I made my way into town.





Vieques Wildlife.
  I was surprised to see the simplicity of the place. For the most part, the buildings are simple and there is a small town feeling to it. I got the sense that if you were to live there, you would know everybody. After a few wrong turns, I found my way to the place I was going to stay for the next few night. The Tropical Guest House was perfect for me. It was a simple room for me to rest and clean up in. The owners and managers are the ones that truly made it enchanting. Their hospitality was above and beyond what I had expected. I was given a list of numbers for reliable cab drivers, directions, and places of interest. I had my bio bay tour that night, so I took a few photos and got some rest.

The bio bay tour started at Sun Bay. I met them at the parking lot and from there we loaded into their vans and headed to Mesquito Bay. The guides were very entertaining and explained the importance of preserving this bay. The ride over was like Mr. Toads Wild Ride through mud soaked dirt road barely wide enough for the van. As we departed the shore in the kayaks I could vaguely see the glow on the water as the light was fading. When the light had faded, and the clouds had rolled over the moon, the stars were barely visible ahead. The soft green glow could be seen with any movement of the water. We went to the center of the bay and tied off to a buoy. I jumped off the kayak and into the very warm, salty water. The moment my body hit the water, I was surrounded by a soft green light. Watching my hands move under the water was magical, as if energy was flowing from my hands. I could see the faint glow of my lower body and the green drops running down my arm as I lifted them out of the water. I looked up towards the stars and was thankful for the opportunity to see such a beautiful sight. It was nothing short of a miracle. By the time I made it back to Isabella II where I was staying, most of the restaruants were closed. I was able to get some pinchos, or shish ca bobs on the street. I was fairly tired, so I retired for the night.

I almost walked right into this beautiful creatures web.


The Black Sand Beach.
 

A Small hive leaving the Black Sand Beach.

Navio
They claim they are wild, but I have my doubts.

Well rested from a good night sleep, I was ready to take on the island. I heard about a black sand beach and was determined to find it. The cab driver knew the general area, but after that I was on my own. It sounded like a good adventure to me. I suppose I inherited my mother’s spirit for adventure. After I navigated my way through a field and down to a creek, I figured I was on a path to the beach. I nearly walked in to a large spider, but it provided some good photos. I made my way down the winding creek and found myself at the black sand beach. I met a local couple and some tourist like myself. They were kind enough to let me join them for the remainder of the day to a few more secluded beaches including Navio. This beach was a gorgeous white sand beach you see in the post cards from these places. Body surfing, snorkeling, and some time later, we were headed back to civilization. On the ride back to my hotel, I was shown a very beautiful viewpoint in the center of the island. The sunset had already passed, but I could see the beauty of this island. The wild verdure, sparely touched by the people that inhabit the landscape.

This unexpected and wonderful day was followed by a delicious fresh Lobster Pasta dinner with a very animated chef. He remembered me from the night before and joked that the place was closed. It made me feel more like a friend, rather than a tourist. I later made my way to a local bar and drank a little more than normal, but we all have to let loose once in a while. I ended up seeing the locals I met earlier that day and was able to properly thank them for their hospitality.

When the oldest tree on the island died, someone carved it and placed it for the public to see.

The view from the old fort.



Esparanza


This Tree is more than 400 years old.  One of the oldest on the Island.



My last day was just as much of an adventure. I took photos from the old fort and prison. Then decided because I had several hours to fill that I would head to Esperanza, on the other side of the island. Esmeralda is the tourist side of the island, yet it feels like a small harbor town. The buildings are built like they are designed to be temporary. It holds a certain charm to just relax and enjoy the moment. After a small meal and some great conversation I started looking for a cab. Unfortunately there were none to be found. It took me more than 45 minutes to get one and I made it back to the ferry ten minutes before it was suppose to depart, only to find out it was full. A group of locals were kind enough to share some Puerto Rican Moonshine and get me a ticket for the later ferry. I did not make it back home till 0100 on Monday, but I made it to work, so it worked out.

I was charmed by the authenticity. Vieques to me was an Island that does not try to be anything else. My hotel was hospitable beyond expectation, the people are generous and the scenery is stunning. I was a tourist there, but I was treated like a friend. I saw the beauty of a simple life style that accommodates the chance to enjoy every moment. I feel fortunate to have gone there, because that is what I imagined when I thought of Puerto Rico.

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